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Posted Jan 24, 2017 by Elmers
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    Custom Tilt-Out Trash Cabinet

    DIY this tilt-out trash cabinet perfect for your space!
    • Hard

    Supplies Needed

    • Elmer’s® Carpenter's® Wood Filler
    • Carpenter's® Wood Glue
    • Cabinet door that matches your kitchen
    • 1x12 - 12 ft.
    • 1x3 - 8 ft.
    • 1x2 - 16 ft.
    • Chop saw
    • Circular Saw or Table Saw
    • Kreg R3 Pocket Hole System with clamp and screws
    • Cordless Drill, impact driver
    • Orbital sander
    • Narrow hinges
    • Cabinet pull
    • Bar clamps
    • Primer
    • Paint in color of choice

    Tip:

     

    As seen on www.justagirlandherblog.com

    Step by Step Instructions

    1
    The first step was deciding what size cabinet door would work best for this project. This example ended up a 21” x 30” door, and that ended up being perfect for a large size garbage can. Depending on the size of your space, you may prefer a smaller or larger finished project.
    2
    When preparing to cut the four sides of the cabinet frame out of 1x12s, use the cabinet door measurements and add an 1/8” to each side. This ensures that you have plenty of room for the narrow hinges and freedom of movement to open and close the tilt-out cabinet. Measure twice, cut once! Also make sure you leave enough room at the bottom of the cabinet for the 1×3 toe kick.
    3
    After verifying your measurements, start making your pocket holes to connect the frame together. Use a Kreg Jig kit, and get a perfect pocket hole – 3 per side.
    4
    Use a generous amount of Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Glue on the joints before screwing everything together. Wood screws can tend to pull loose over time and create an ugly, flimsy gap in your project. The only way to make that perfect joint that never separates is with screws and wood glue.
    5
    After the four cabinet sides were joined, it was time to attach the various 1x3s and 1x2s trim pieces to give the cabinet a finished look. Follow the exact same process as before — measure twice, cut once, attach with the pocket hole method and Elmer’s Wood Glue. Here’s where you use your 1x3s: Bottom toe-kick; Rear base trim; Underneath the top front ledge. Here’s where you use your 1x2s: Cabinet top overhanging “lip”; Front and back sides; Top back piece.
    6
    Once the trim pieces were attached and glued, make sure to sand down the cabinet with an orbital sander. This gives a nice smooth surface for primer and paint.
    7
    Once the cabinet “box” is painted, you can work on the tilt-out cabinet door. Cut two 1x12s at a 45 degree angle with a chop saw (a table saw or circular saw would work as well) for the angled sides. Then make a straight cut on a 1×12 for the garbage can resting spot.
    8
    Place the door into the cabinet frame to make sure everything fits. When selecting hinges for the project, consider using a 12” long piano style hinge, but for this example it used two narrow hinges that were smaller but seemed slightly thicker and more durable than the bendy piano hinges. Either would probably work just fine.
    9
    Use whatever handle matches your area and attach it.

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